Explore the intricate parts of a suit, from lapels to linings, and understand how quality craftsmanship makes all the difference in your wardrobe.
Since the 19th century, suits have been essential for conveying professionalism, formality, and elegance. They are invaluable for royalty, military, and gentry in making a strong impression.
But are all suits alike? While most suits feature elements like a collar, lapel, sleeves, buttons, and pockets, that’s where the similarity stops. It’s the anatomy of a suit—the layers you can’t see—that truly defines the quality of the garment.
At Tom James, we make high-quality suits for men and women. As the world’s largest provider of custom and bespoke clothing, we know that quality suits are defined more by what is ‘hiding’ behind the lining than by what you can see on the surface.
The Elements of a High-Quality Suit
Just as the finest cars, homes, and jewelry are handcrafted, a custom suit is uniquely tailored for you, offering a fit and drape that mass-produced options cannot match. It's the parts of a suit, such as hand stitches that shape lapels, and hidden features beneath the fabric that will create a more long-lasting garment and one that truly fits.
There are 8 essential components that make up the anatomy of a suit. The canvas is the foundation of your suit, while the shoulders, collar, and lapels form the jacket's frame. The lining adds to the durability, and the sleeves, pockets, and buttons are the finishing touches that distinguish low-quality from high-quality at first glance.
Canvas
The foundation of a great suit is the construction, and that starts with the jacket canvas. The canvas sits between the exterior jacket fabric and the interior jacket lining. In a quality, tailored suit, there's no glue, no shortcuts between the fabric and the lining. Instead, it is a movable, breathable canvas that gives the suit definition and endurance and is ultimately much more comfortable.
The best canvas is a combination of natural fibers, such as wool, cotton, and horsehair, along with a synthetic material (such as spun rayon) to give it durability. Lesser-quality suits feature a fixed or fused canvas made entirely of synthetic materials, which means it doesn’t breathe or handle moisture or humidity naturally.
Lining
The lining is critical to a well-made suit.
The sleeve of the suit gets the most wear as you move your arms more. Lower-quality suits can have a different lining fabric in the sleeves. But it’s not a place to cut corners, as the sleeves endure more action and require more durability.
A well-crafted lining breathes exceptionally well and offers a soft and luxurious feel to the body. Pleated and finished properly, a suit lined with a quality fabric is a joy to wear as the lining lets the fabric and canvas perform perfectly.
Shoulders
The shoulders, collar, and lapels are the frame of the jacket. When they are hand-stitched, there’s a naturalness to the look. It has authenticity. It just looks – and fits – right.
When the shoulders are ill-fitting, the wearer looks uncomfortable. There's a stiffness to how the suit drapes. It lacks a certain elegance.
A custom garment takes into account the slope of your shoulders and will drape more effectively because it’s made for you.
Fine suits also have handwork all through the arm hole and shoulder, and perspiration shields to protect the outer cloth. The result is a natural-looking garment that is perfectly fitted to your body and is comfortable and a joy to wear.
Collar
Above the shoulder is the padded collar, which is placed by hand, taking into account the posture of its wearer.
A well-fitted jacket will hug the neck and not stand away. It’s one of the most common mistakes and something most men are unaware of, as they never see themselves from the side or behind.
This is exactly why Tom James clothiers take 30 measurements as well as photos of their clients to document the fit. When the collar perfectly contours the neck, both the front of the suit and the back lend a look of distinction and elegance.
Lapels
A beautiful lapel needs to be gentle and firm at the same time. This is why custom-made lapels are rolled, shaped, and constructed with care. With a natural canvas and handwork, a lapel holds its shape regardless of the number of airplane flights or road trips it endures.
Sleeves
With a well-made suit, as the canvas curves around the arms and shoulders, you find 100% cotton sleeve heads and shoulder pads, and a lining that matches the rest of the jacket.
Another tell-tale sign of quality construction can be found in the underside sleeve seam. A quality suit with a pinstripe or a pattern will find a continuation of the pattern between the sleeve and the jacket body on the underside of the sleeve. Manufacturers of lesser-quality garments don’t take the same level of care to match patterns and ensure perfection.
Pockets
Quality workmanship is also noticeable when it comes to the pockets. Subtleties of function are seen with inside pockets that are pre-tacked to the canvas and outside pockets that are self-lined. This makes them strong and durable, providing a perfect contour to your silhouette.
Buttons
Quality buttons are made from horn or mother-of-pearl and are easily distinguishable from lesser quality materials. With a less expensive, store-bought suit, you immediately notice a difference. Well-made suits have buttons that are thicker, more durable, and significantly more substantial.
Choose the Right Suit
A great suit is something that starts with good construction. Crafted from 30 measurements, a custom or Made-to-Measure Suit perfectly contours to your body. There is no pulling or tugging and every component of the suit fits elegantly. You instantly feel like the best version of yourself, as you’ll be receiving compliments on your clothing.
You’ve reached the level of success where you depend on professionals for so many tasks, such as your taxes, repairs to your home, and car maintenance. Yet you still wander through department stores to build a wardrobe that would enhance your professional image.
Instead, let a Tom James clothier provide you with the personal advice that you’re accustomed to in other areas of your life. This relationship becomes a team, as your professional clothier will help you choose styles that enhance the image you want to portray. The result is a more suitable wardrobe with ease as our clothiers come to you at your home or office. No more wasting weekends searching department stores for the perfect suit or struggling with an app trying to take measurements with your camera. When you work with a Tom James clothier, you’re in this together. Schedule a time with a professional clothier today to learn the difference.