Category Archives: The Virtual Tailor

Advanced Topics in Wool

It’s back to school time! In today’s session we will cover the finer points of wool – and why all cloth is not created equal.

The quality of the raw wool is the single most important factor in the outcome of the finished cloth. Wool is judged in 5 key areas:

  1. Diameter. The smaller the diameter of the raw wool fibers, the more luxurious the eventual cloth. Wool diameter is expressed via the “Super” scale. On the “Super” scale, cloth made from finer diameter wool has a higher number. For example, a “Super 100’s” cloth is made from wool with a diameter of about 18.5 microns; compare this to an ultra high-end “Super 220’s” cloth with a diameter of just 12.5 microns. (For perspective, human hair has a diameter of 60 – 70 microns!) Just remember: the higher the “Super” number, the finer the wool fibers.
  2. Length. The longer the raw wool fibers, the better. Longer fibers resist “pilling” and lead to a more consistent cloth. The ideal length for a suit cloth is five to seven inches.
  3. Strength. A strong fiber ultimately weaves into a strong and enduring cloth; a weak fiber will result in a poor cloth. Wool is measured for its tensile strength.
  4. Crimp. Crimp is a measure of the natural elasticity or memory of the fibers. Wool fibers must have a certain degree of memory in order for a finished garment to recover between wearings and maintain its shape.
  5. Purity. Raw wool must be carefully scoured (cleaned) to remove all impurities and organic materials that may have become trapped prior to shearing. Even the slightest extraneous material will result in unwanted irregularities in the cloth.

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What is the best collar style for me?

The key is counter-balancing your facial structure with your collar

Choosing a collar is more than just a matter of style. 
As the closest part of clothing to your face, your collar has a surprisingly strong influence on your overall appearance.

You should always select a collar style which counter-balances your most prominent features. 
Let’s use four Tom James clothiers to illustrate the rights and wrongs of collar selection.

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The Color of Emotion

How to select the right color clothing for any business situation

The world we live in is highly produced and packaged.
As consumers, the first thing we evaluate in a product is its packaging. More often than not, we select a product based on the impact and perceived credibility of its packaging.
While subsequent purchases will be tied more to actual performance, the initial decision is largely based on appearance.

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The Essential Suits of a Well Stocked Closet

One of our commitments as your clothier is to help you develop and maintain a wardrobe that will allow you to be properly dressed for any occasion, whether business, social, formal or casual. To that end, here is a time-tested guideline for the building of a suit inventory that will do just that. If you only have these six, you can be confident that you have something that will be right for any occasion that requires a suit. If your closet lacks one of these, it needs work, even if you have two or three times this number of suits.

Navy Solid – The cornerstone of every well-conceived wardrobe, and the most versatile suit that you can own. . This is your wedding and funeral suit – a tasteful and respectful choice for those situations. While the black suit has been in vogue recently, most people look better in navy – cooler tones for clear skin tones, warmer ones of those with gold undertones in their skin & hair.

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