The Hidden Art of a Custom Suit Lining

When Comfort Meets Self-Expression

By: Kim Keller, Tom James Clothier in Dallas, TX
September 6, 2022

There are many benefits to owning a Tom James custom garment. Our clients appreciate the convenience of our service (We Come to You), along with better quality & selection than retail stores offer, but comfort and an exquisite fit are the key advantages of wearing a custom-made garment. 

Equally enticing benefits are the ability to express yourself and personalize your clothes by selecting style details & features such as thread color, buttons, and the jacket lining. Today, we will focus on the jacket lining-the purpose of the lining & popular lining options including the ability to create a custom lining for your tailor-made jacket. 

What Is the Purpose of a Suit Lining?

The jacket lining is a subtle, yet vital component of your suit or sport coat so let’s discuss the purposes of a lining. First, the lining adds body and structure to the jacket which helps the garment to drape better and reduces the chance of fabric bunching up. Second, a lining makes the jacket easier to put on and prevents your jacket from catching on your shirt & wrinkling. Lastly, the lining conceals the inner construction of the jacket & provides an attractive interior. 

The best-looking suits have a certain panache, drape, and shape that anchors the entire look of a suit. One can attribute much of this look to a good inner lining which allows the jacket to better sit along the contours of the body and thus, giving you that signature tailored appearance.

Custom Jacket Linings

What Are The Different Types of Suit Linings?

There are several lining options to consider including the 4 methods of lining along with the lining itself. The 1st method is a full lining which is what you see in the majority of jackets on the market. The lining covers the entire inside of the jacket, including the inside of the sleeves. The 2nd method is a half lining where the lining is removed from just the lower half of the back panel. This makes the jacket slightly lighter & airier which is a good feature for people that tend to run hot. Our Como, Biella & Valencia stretch knit jackets come standard with a half lining. 

The 3rd method is a 1/4 lining where the jacket has a lining on the side panels, inside the sleeves, and at the top of the shoulders. 1/4 lining is only available on our Oxxford Collection & works well for jackets you plan to wear more casually. The 4th method is a french facing lining with piped seams where the lining is only inside the sleeves for ease and comfort. French facing is only available in our lounge coat which is an unconstructed coat.

The final option to consider is the lining color and /or pattern to compliment your jacket, it can be simple or elaborate. Linings are inherently hidden and don’t affect your first impression, so feel free to have as much (or little) fun as your personality warrants. Adding a decorative lining is a great way to personalize the jacket, add meaning & a bit of flair. 

Which Jacket Lining Should I Choose for My Custom Suit?

Custom Jacket Linings With Your Initials

At Tom James, there are 4 lining style options. The first and simplest option is tone-on-tone where the lining basically matches the jacket fabric. This is a traditional, versatile and timeless option that doesn’t call any attention to the garment. The second option is a contrasting or complementary color lining, this is a good choice if you want something with a little more finesse. The third option is a pattern lining which can be subtle like plaid and paisley or bold and eye-catching like skulls and dragons.

The last and most expressive option is a custom lining to truly make your garment one of a kind piece inside and out. Custom linings are an excellent way to showcase, celebrate & cherish relationships which makes them very popular with all members of a wedding party but especially the Groom & the Father of the Bride. Custom linings can showcase your company or university logo (with permission) for special recognition or rewards for employees & alumni. The possibilities are truly endless, from your child’s artwork to pictures of a dream vacation to pictures of your beloved pet - have your custom lining illustrate something that is near and dear to your heart. 

Custom linings are available in our Executive Collection, Royal Classic, Ventura, and Oxxford collections, contact your Tom James clothier to discuss creating a custom lining in your next tailor-made garment. 


"Daniel is fantastic at what he does. Since I've started using him I've never once had to think twice about my clothing. He will make great suggestions, execute what I want, and make sure that every detail is correct. I'll never go store bought again."

Custom Clothier Daniel Wiebracht

Daniel Wiebracht

Tom James of East Texas

"From day one, Ben has always exceeded my expectation of service. He has always gone beyond what is expected and he anticipates my needs. Ben is a class act."

Custom Clothier Ben Lawler

Ben Lawler

Tom James of St Louis
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