What is the best collar style for me?

The key is counter-balancing your facial structure with your collar

Choosing a collar is more than just a matter of style. 
As the closest part of clothing to your face, your collar has a surprisingly strong influence on your overall appearance.


You should always select a collar style which counter-balances your most prominent features. 
Let’s use four Tom James clothiers to illustrate the rights and wrongs of collar selection.

Feature: Narrow Face
Clothier: Jason Dial, Nashville TN
Strategy:          Use wider collars to broaden face

 Jason’s
Best Collars
The Traditional The Traditional
The Medium
Spread
The Medium Spread
The Wide Spread The Wide Spread
The Como The Como
All with a normal back and front
  Wrong:
 If Jason wears a narrow point collar, his long and narrow facial structure is accentuated,
and he looks even thinner.
  Right:
 If Jason wears a spread collar as wide or slightly wider
than his face, his face will be counter-balanced by the additional width of the collar.

Feature: Round Face
Clothier: Ken Aoki, New York NY
Strategy:          Use narrower collars to lengthen face

 Ken’s
Best Collars
The
Narrow Point
The Traditional
The
Conservative
The Medium Spread
The
Continental
The Wide Spread
All with a low back and low front
  Wrong:
 If Ken wears a wide spread collar, it will make his head look larger.  If he wears a collar that is too small, he will look heavier than he really is.
  Right:
 If Ken wears a collar that is slightly narrower than his face, his face will look thinner.  A shorter front and back height contributes to this effect.

Feature: Long Neck
Clothier: Kevin Miller, Austin TX
Strategy:          Use higher collars to shorten neck

 Kevin’s
Best Collars
The
Traditional
The Traditional
The
Medium Spread
The Medium Spread
The
Wide Spread
The Wide Spread
The
Como
The Como
All with an extra high back and high front
  Wrong:
 If Kevin wears a normal collar height in a narrow point collar, his long neck will be accentuated and
look even longer.
  Right:
 If Kevin wears an extra high back
and high front collar, he will appear more proportionate. A collar that is slightly wider than his face
will help achieve even more balance.

Feature: Short Neck
Clothier: Josh Smith, Cleveland OH
Strategy:          Use lower collars to lengthen neck

 Josh’s
Best Collars
The
Narrow Point
The Traditional
The
Conservative
The Medium Spread
The
Continental
The Wide Spread
All with a low back and low front
  Wrong:
 If Josh wears a collar with a normal height
in the front and back, it will make him look as if he has no neck at
all.  He will also appear heavier.
  Right:
 If Josh wears a collar slightly narrower than his face, with a lower back and front height,
his neck will appear longer.  He will also
look thinner.

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