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In this Issue:
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1. Double Breasted Suits
This iconic classic is now reaching a whole new generation in search of sophistication and style. Many men have a love-hate relationship with the double-breasted suit. For some, it epitomizes the sophistication of bygone stars of the silver screen, such as Cary Grant and Clark Gable.
Others, who have yet to appreciate its appeal, will see nothing more than a stodgy upscale antiquities dealer. Love them or hate them - either way, they have hit the runways and all the major windows. Prince of Wales checks or chalk stripes are the patterns of choice. The details of a fitted waistline jacket, with pleated trousers, are the keys that define this on-trend look for the season.
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2. Tailored Waistcoats and Cardigans at centre of Autum Men's "Must-Haves"
 This season will feature the return of the suit wasitcoat as a change of pace piece, top male fashion enthusiasts are saying. A smart, well-tailored wasitcoat can allow a man to flex his fashion muscle and look well turned-out at dinner, at the office, at the Starbucks for a morning latte and paper, and on the weekend.
All around the world, fashion gurus are giving their take on this autumn wardrobe must-have. A waistcoat is an element that can be dressed up as a three piece suit or down with jeans, in place of a sweater, for a touch of masculine style. It will be best worn layered over poplin button-down shirts in various solid colours. “If you're going after your first 3-piece suit in over a decade, don't over think it. Go for the chalk stripe, not the pinstripe", according to Christian Boehm VP and Director of Merchandise for Tom James. “The cardigan has experienced a recent fashion revival, as well," says Boehm. "The stylish cardigan is one of this year's most essential fashion items."
For the history buffs, the cardigan was first named for James Thomas Brudnell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, a British military commander during the Crimean War. The cardigan made headlines in the twentieth century, as well, when the outspoken Bulgarian-born broadcaster and dissident, Vladimir Kostov, was involved in an attempted assassination - a poisonous pellet was kept from entering his skin too deeply because he was wearing a very thick woollen cardigan!
2009 will see a range of cardigans and waistcoat - from the catwalk to better specialty stores and staple fashion stores. Whether you're looking for a smart cardigan to finish the look of your new herringbone suit, or you're more interested in finding a flannel gray waistcoat to complete an effortlessly casual look, 2009 is the year.
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3. Don’t button it
 The Japanese have a word, “iine” which means “cool”. Their thirst for western styles has launched two interesting trends back toward the western front. Wearing your dress shirt’s top button purposely un-buttoned with today’s thinner neckwear is young and comfortable. While wearing your button down shirts unbuttoned seems un-functional it is also considered to be fun and approachable, so for a fresh take on business casual or social dressing , take a shot of that vibrant rebel spirit, and leave the points unbuttoned.
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4. Dress jeans with the jacket of your best tailored suit?
Mixing tailored clothing, like your navy stripe suit jackets with clothing bred for comfort, such as the essential dress jean, has become not only essential for the two bag maximum that most airlines have tagged on to their list of regulations, but has now inspired an interesting trend cruising down those famous streets of fashion, 5th Ave and Bond Street. Don't get caught speeding though because there are some jackets that best accomplish this look. Look for jackets on the beefier side that can almost double as outerwear on a cooler day, for instance, gutsy chalk stripes or soft solid flannels.
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5. Soft, lightly pressed wash and wear sportswear
While many of you have found great value and function in our wrinkle-free shirts and khakis, the "no-iron" look has been, in too many cases, overdone, or so poorly done, that it is now a commodity found in every outlet mall or "always on-sale" chain retailer. Though highly functional, it is hardly refined and not at all in fashion. A recent article in Esquire magazine likened a wrinkle-free shirt to a football uniform without grass stains. A little too "third string" perhaps? The most sophisticated dressers understand that dressing using different textures is far more interesting. When you mix a lightly pressed sport-shirt with a cleanly pressed trouser or even a softer washed khaki or moleskin trouser with a more pressed shirt, it will soften your look and create a noteworthy style. Top
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Have you ever walked into a client's office or a cocktail party and thought, "Am I wearing the right thing?" Feeling inappropriately attired is a drain on personal confidence and can turn what should have been an enjoyable occasion into one you just want to be over. To avoid such an occurrence, here are a few Dos and Don'ts to consider. |
Sophisticated “Suit” Atmosphere:
 As a leader, you have a sphere of influence and you help determine the professional tone of your office environment. You lead by example in your work ethic, mannerisms, and willingness to get the job done. The question is - do you present yourself in a way that people can emulate? As a leader you should always dress the part. If your workplace is a suit environment, always have your suits pressed and crisp; coordinate your outfits so others can follow your lead, and demonstrate pride in your job by what you wear. You don't have to conform to "uniform rules" of dressing and wear nothing but blue, gray and black all the time. However, it's best to avoid some common mistakes, if you want to be taken seriously. Pay attention to your first impression. After all, if you are going to be noticed for something you may as well be noticed for something right and always looking your best.
Dos and Dont's:
- Avoid looking like you just robbed a jewellery store with too much "bling". There is nothing wrong with a nice timepiece and a wedding band but much more than that can diminish the authenticity of your leader status.
- Always have your shoes polished and well-kept. In response to the question, "What leaves a lasting impression so that when a man leaves, you think of them as well dressed? “ a group of women, working in Fortune 500 companies, responded that the number one thing was whether they wore good, well-polished shoes.
- If you are wearing a suit, keep the slip-ons in the closet. Complement the suit with a nice pair of lace-ups to maintain the consistency of your professional demeanour. Just remember this: while an employee's starting position at the company may be called associate, that doesn't mean he should dress like he wants to be an associate the rest of his life. If his goal is to run the company, then he should dress for the boardroom.
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Classy Business Casual Setting:
 When the workplace says "business casual” that really opens the door for you to take the lead. Creating an impression in this arena comes quite easily. This means when you walk into your wardrobe, you scoot past the khaki's and polo's and look through your sport coat collection. A true professional must invest in multiple patterned sport coats in various colours, as well as having updated navy and black blazers in their rotation. Having these coats in the wardrobe will ensure the different looks needed to avoid looking like the mobile IT guy that might fix your laptop. These can be worn with a variety of trousers, and can be dressed up with a shirt and tie or dressed down with an open collared shirt.
What Not to do:
One common mistake, which strikes fear in the heart of your clothier, is attempting to take this idea and make it work with the items in your closet, without solid professional advice. An example of this is pulling out the horse blanket that was your grandfather's favourite jacket or telling yourself that you already have a Navy Blazer…the one that you have had since your first year in university …… and pretending that no one notices its condition. To be the part you have to dress the part. Also, if you are going to wear a golf shirt under a jacket or blazer, which is fine, make sure it isn't heavily patterned or looks like you get paid a commission to wear logos. Less is more and simple is best in this case. |
Stylish Business Appropriate:
 If your workplace says stay away from coats, here is your segment. Life doesn't stop when the workplace isn't in suits or blazers, but it does get a little hairy. In order to insure that you still are making the right impression, have multiple levels of trousers, knits, sweaters and sport shirts. To be specific, have several wool trousers that would be paired with patterned shirts in stripes or checks. Include in your trouser rotation some micro-fibre trousers, perhaps a new five pocket or two in cords or a prime flannel and some great jeans. A nice pair of stylish slip-ons will help complete the look.
What Not to do:
Don't dress for a football game, BBQ, or housework. Keep the khaki's, cheap blue jeans, and shorts for these types of events, because that is what they are for. Golf polo's (the patterned and logo ones) are for golf, t-shirts are for wearing around the house, and tennis shoes are for outdoor activities.
Dressing the part can truly make a difference in how you are perceived and sets a precedent for future expectations. Making a decision to truly adapt to the rules of dress in your corporate culture will enable you to become even more effective. Top
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1. Take Quick Action - The sooner a stain is treated the better. Time can “set” stains. Almost any stain can be removed if action is taken quickly enough; however almost any stain will become permanent if left untreated too long. Ideally, all stains should be treated within the first 24 hours.
2. Blot & Scrape – Whenever possible, immediately after the stain occurs, blot up any excess liquid with a paper towel or clean white cloth. Scrape solids from the leather if the stain is dry. Try to remove as much excess as possible before further stain treatment.
3. Before attempting to remove a stain, always test the cleaning solution on a small inconspicuous part of the leather garment before proceeding.
4. Do Not Use Leather Shoe Products - Avoid using leather shoe cleaning products like oils, polishes and waxes when cleaning leather garments. For most leather garments, a brand name leather cleaner is your safest bet for removing most stains. Do not use household cleaning products to clean leather garments. They may remove the stain, but they will often damage the finish of the leather in the process.
5. Cleaning Finished Leather - Place a small amount of bar soap on a damp cloth and work it into a light lather. Rub the damp cloth on the leather without getting the leather too wet. Using a fresh damp cloth, wipe off the lather. Do not use water to rinse the leather. When done, polish the item with a dry towel. After it has dried completely, treat the article with a leather conditioner made for leather garments.
6. Cleaning Unfinished Leather - Using a damp cloth or sponge, rub saddle soap into the leather. Work the soap into a light lather. Wipe away the lather and allow the item to air dry. Oil the leather with a leather preservative such as mink oil formulated for leather garments.
Treating Common Leather Stains
Protein Stains – Some common protein stains are blood, chocolate, egg, ice cream, milk, baby formula, vomit, and perspiration. Blot any excess moisture with a clean, damp cloth. Allow garment to dry slowly, away from a heat source. Mix a solution of 3 parts vinegar to 1 part water. Moisten a cloth with the vinegar solution and dab on the affected area, then leave to dry. Repeat as necessary.
Mildew - Mix 1 part rubbing alcohol with 1 part water. Moisten a cloth with the mixture and wipe the affected area, then leave to dry. Repeat as necessary.
Ink - Ink can be extremely difficult to remove from leather. We recommend consulting a leather-cleaning professional.
Water Stains - Allow a water soaked leather garment to dry slowly and naturally. Keep the garment away from heat sources. After it dries, restore its softness with a leather conditioner.
Grease - Blot excess grease with a clean cloth. Sprinkle talcum powder on the affected area and let sit for at least 4 hours. The powder will slowly draw the grease out of the leather. Do not rub. Brush off the powder. Repeat as necessary.
Gum - Rub with a plastic bag full of ice cubes. The cold temperature will harden the gum enabling you to then pull off the gum. For any residual gum, heat the area with a hair dryer and rub off the gum with a clean cloth.
Salt Stains - Mix a solution of 3 parts vinegar to 1 part water. Moisten a cloth with the vinegar solution and dab on the affected area. Repeat as necessary.
Discoloration – To treat discoloration, use a brand name leather spray designed to restore colour. These products are sold at shoe repair shops. Choose the colour that most closely matches the colour of the leather. Top
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