Trimmer silhouettes have inspired this new trouser design for men. Modern and comfortable, sport pant fabrics like baby wale corduroy, butter soft wool flannel, and the more substantial cotton moleskin (what corduroy starts out as before the ridges are cropped) are the cloths of choice for this new blue jean inspired pant.

Five pockets refers to the total of two front crescent pockets, two “patch” hip pockets, and the 5th pocket – a small square utility pocket sewn inside of the left front pocket – not unlike what you see on your favorite (Agave?) jeans. Of note, a five pocket pant never has a front or back crease – they are folded or hung seam to seam. Tell your dry cleaning professional to press them correctly –“no creases please”. If you’ve already navigated the move from pleats to flat front trousers, the Five Pocket Pant will be the next detour on your sartorial road trip.”

Should You be Wearing Flat Front Trousers

If fashion were the only dictate, this would be a one sentence email – YES. However, beyond considerations of what is “current”, consider the following:

When you remove the pleats from the pattern, you also remove the extra fabric that offers “forgiveness” when pants get a little tight, or you find yourself sitting for long periods (meetings and plane flights). Flat front trousers will wrinkle more. Pleated pants do better. QED.
If you are sporting larger than average quadriceps (the large muscle in the front of your thigh) or are just blessed with thick thighs, you may find the fit of many flat front pants to be confining – including most off-the-shelf varieties. In a custom pattern we can accommodate this by increasing the thigh and knee measures to improve the drape and comfort significantly. So yes, it is possible to make a flat front pattern to fit an otherwise pleated body. And we’re good at it.
Realize that missing pleats puts stress on the side seams of a flat front trouser, causing most pocket configurations to pull or “yawn” open. The more maximus your gluteus, the worse the pockets can look. We can do a couple of things to minimize or eliminate this issue in a custom pattern, including making the back rise longer and relaxing the hip measurement. Let it suffice to say that 13 measurements always trump one or two measurements for proper pant sizing.

So – if you haven’t already added our custom flat front pants to your wardrobe, now would be a great time to consider doing so. And if you’re one to hedge your bets, try this: order a tailor made suit with two matching trousers – one with pleats and cuffs, and the other in a flat front model sans cuffs. You can select the suit trouser to fit your audience (flat fronts are high fashion, pleats are more conservative) and your comfort level (wear the pleated trousers for flying). And don’t overlook having a flat front golf trouser made to measure – we have a new incredibly lightweight microfiber designed originally for Tiger Woods, and half a dozen new wool/lycra fabrics that have just enough stretch in the thigh to be comfortable when you squat down to read the line of your putt.

Men's

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Tom James Company is the world's largest manufacturer and retailer of custom clothing. Our highly trained Tailors come directly to your home or office, saving you valuable time. They plan, coordinate, and maintain your wardrobe so you are perfectly attired for any situation - business, casual, social, or formal. Our Tailors are wardrobe consultants, well-versed in fabrics, style and patterns. They assist you in selecting a wardrobe that will compliment you with the finest clothing and the best value at a price that is comfortable to you.